Bauer, Michelin Guide get cozy
But seeing Bidenbum throwing money at his blog is a bit of a surprise.
I guess the Michelin Man and his friends didn't take the whole getting-fact-checked-on-the-front-page thing too personally, then?
Right now, just starting out, it's probably out of our grasp to cover restaurants across the country in any meaningful way. Especially because we have Chowhound, we've felt that we could wait for a while. But it's coming soon. In fact, we plan fairly extensive coverage.Great party photos here. The Business Times' past coverage of Chow here (free link).
It was at (the Ritz) that Danko met his partner Nick Peyton, who is responsible for the large brigade of skilled and knowledgable waiters who always seem to be there when needed ...Bauer feels this implies Peyton is still involved in the restaurant, though my initial read is that it's simply unclear and that a reader impression is different from factual inaccuracy. When I first read this passage Monday night, I remember being surprised Peyton was still involved, however, and ideally there should be a clear indication Peyton is gone. Why mention him at all?
We had coffee.Bauer:
Giving [Chez Panisse] one star, in my mind, shows that the inspectors don't get the Bay Area food scene .... the list lacks many of the places that go to the heart of Bay Area diningDanko:
... hard to make sense of ... I wonder if our restaurants are being handicapped because [French Laundry] is much better than any of the other restaurants here
... I don't know if it's a wake-up call or we're just going to become even more provincial and say, 'Screw 'em!'
Michelin is predisposed to rating French-styled and -setup restaurants ... If Michelin wants to embrace the world, it needs to look at cultural differences
... [The star demotion] fits into the whole Michelin modus operandi, to show that they are in charge.
I know that it's absolutely about the complexity of the wine list, and a certain kind of service, and the way the restaurant is set up. At Chez Panisse, I've never wanted it to conform in that way.
I'm disappointed by not getting two stars ... it will become a bible.
Maybe I should just open a bistro.
I don't kiss up to the French.
"I'm not putting Michelin tires on MY car..."
The reason Angelenos come to San Francisco to eat is because our food is more about ingredient-driven, organic, free-range, sustainable, fresh-right-from-the-backyard, seasonal food than it is about some chef's ego and how high he can pile [it].
A meal to remember ... sublime flavors and textures ...dishes are exquisitely seasoned ... a notch above many other Napa Valley restaurants.
While the decor hits the mark, the kitchen floundered in a state of transition at the beginning of 2006, after chef Daniel Humm left.
"It's very interesting to see what the French think about American restaurants," said Gary Danko, chef and owner of Restaurant Gary Danko, which received one star. "We're very happy to be in the Michelin galaxy. It tells everyone the French are interested in what's happening here."Read the full story at Wine Spectator Online.
Still, Danko, one of San Francisco's most esteemed chefs, also added, "If Michelin wants to embrace the world, it needs to look at cultural differences."
Everyone who even tangentially cared got their cloth napkins in a twist over it. Too French! Too elitist! ... The Spotted Pig?! Jean-Georges better than Daniel?! Oh, people were angry."
The book, everyone eagerly agreed, was quirky, off-key, and almost comically Francophile. Three stars for Alain Ducasse?! “Ducasse is the Abba of haute cuisine,” one of my food-writer friends sniffed. According to Michelin, one of the very top brasseries in New York is an entrenched Madison Avenue establishment called La Goulue. “La Goulue,” said another incensed food friend of mine. “My grandmother doesn’t even go to La Goulue!”But, as it turns out, Michelin has become uniquitous. A simple keyword search on NYTimes.com or NYMag.com reveals the prevalent use of "Michelin Man" as an honorific and star ratings dropped like nobody's business.
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